Shivasamudram - an Amazing stretch of splendour on water

Shivanasamudram falls is one of the largest water falls in south india and is located across cauvery located near Mandya district in Karnataka. The town of shivasamudram is a small island that splits the cauvery river into two and creates two spectacular waterfalls called Gaganachukki and Barachukki both accessible by road. The falls cut flow through rocky gorges and cut across as many segments fall down as multiple streams of waterfalls. The place is best during/after monsoon, other times of the seasons, the place is very dry and water almost trickling down.

Distance: 150 Km from Bangalore

Routes : 

There are two routes from Bangalore

1. Bangaloreè Mysore roadè MaddurèMalavalliè Shivasamudram
2. Bangaloreè Kanakpura roadè Malavalli è Shivasamudram

While the first route (1) goes through the 4 lane road for about 100 km till Maddur and turns left to Malavalli road, is a bit longer but is more reliable route. The second route is two lane throughout and is a country side road, yet very good for the most part. We took the second route while coming and left back to Bangalore by the first route so that we can travel safe by the Mysore road after getting dark.

Accessibility: Though its possible to take bus till Maddur and then towards Malavalli, the dispersed nature of the two falls require own vehicle to explore all the places, as there won’t be any transport that can take you to all the viewpoints of both the falls, which are a must during a visit to Shivanasamudram.

Best time to visit: Post monsoon è July to November. All other months are a ‘strict no’, as there would be very little water.

Time spent:

• 1.       Explore the viewpoints of both the falls, photographs
• 2.       Take a Dip along the river banks
• 3.       Enjoy a coracle ride in Barachukki
• 4.       Take a bath at Barachuckki

Spot 1:

Gaganachukki falls: On reaching shivanasamudram from Malavalli there would be plenty of signboards pointing towards Gaganachukki. On entering the main road there would be a big arch for the hydel power project of Shivanasamudram. Entering through this road will take you to the first view point of Gaganachukki. The place gives a complete glimpse of the falls. Gaganachukki is bigger of the two falls and this Hydel power station end only gives a view point and you cannot go down to the falls. The place also has a resort and a decent restaurant. This place is only for clicking pictures, and if you are not that type you can skip this   place.

The four must see spots in Shivanasamudram

Spot 2:

Bridge: Driving towards the Barachukki would need you to cross the bridge. This crossing itself is a great place and you can go down the river to take a dip or have a home packed lunch nearby the river bank.

Spot 3: Crossing the bridge can take you to the other side of Gaganachukki where you can actually climb down the rocks and go the falls and witness Gaganachukki in close quarters with waters gushing down closeby. It is not advised to take bath here as the current is very strong, with slippery rocks all over the place. Morever Barachukki has ideal place to take bath. There is also a Dargah (Hazrath Mardane Gaib) closeby. The place also has small local eateries where you can get Fresh fried fish, Parottas, rice and fish curry.

Spot 4: Riding further towards Barachukki can take you to the falls which is more spread out and ideal for taking bath.  This place also has shops nearby where you can eat fresh fried fish. Coracle ride here is a must and would take you close to the falls where you will get almost drenched.

Second spot of ganaganachukki as seen from the first spot view point

Another view of Gaganachukki on full flow

Shot taken from the view point taken from Gaganachukki - Spot 1

Enroute to barachukku

The river valley seen from Gaganachukki spot 2 - near Dargah, (see the smaller dargah in the right corner above)

Picture as taken from Gaganachukki spot 2

Picture as taken from Gaganachukki spot 2

Gaganachukki view point spot 1 as seen from Gaganchukki  Dargah spot 2

Another picture from Gaganachukki spot 2

Another picture encompassing both entire Gaganachukki

River flow take from Dargah view point

Picture of the Dargah close by

A field en-route

Spot 3 -the bridge crossing to reach Barachukki

Spot 3 - Bridge crossing to go to Barachukki

Barachukki falls

Barachukki - complete view

Coracle ride at Barachukki

Though exploring all the above places can take one full day, if there is time one can also go to Somnathpur,  Mudukuthore,  Talakad – great temples known for Hoysala architechture and ancient temple submerged in the banks of Cauvery. This is a further 35 Km from Shivasamudram. Unless you start very early from Bangalore covering this with in a day is difficult.

Suggested: An ideal trip would be to travel in car or a cab, as the peak season would almost always see rain that might happen during the day. But riding a bike down these roads is always special and one shouldn’t hesitate going by bike if you can start early enough in the day.

Eateries: Maddur Tiffanys at Maddur is a good place to have breakfast, with idly and Maddur vada which Maddur is very famous for.  There is a decent hotel at the view point of Gaganachukki (spot 1) mentioned above. However if you are okay with local food, there are local eateries at the Dargah side of Gaganachukki and some small eateries at Barachukki that provide rice, fish curry and fried fish.

Palamalai - the Quaint little hilltop temple

Quite often we plan and go to so called exotic and extravagant places, yet we fail to discover and see great gems of places that are right next to our backyard. Palamalai, some 25 Km from my hometown Coimbatore is one such beautiful place. Visited only by some regulars of the temple, not many in Coimbatore visit this place, if at all they have even heard about this place. Palamalai is a quaint little village atop a hill about 25 km from Coimbatore, and is known more for its temple - Arulmigu Palamalai Aranganadhar Thirukkovil, (A Perumal (Vishnu) Temple) than its hilly locale. I have heard that the route was bad, but when I had visited – June 2011, the road was freshly laid, and was in best shape. The road can take you right upto the temple and you need not walk any further.

The route is as follows : Coimbatore ==> Mettupalayam road ==> Periayanayakan pirivu ==> Kovanur ==> Palamalai

After Kovanur, there doesn’t seem to be any human inhabitation and the roads are completely empty and peaceful. The road atop the hills is very good and even had a few hair pin bends on the way. After some 6/7 Km of winding hill roads amidst some scenic views, I reached the Top of the hill.


Route from coimbatore to Palamalai:

View Larger Map

The top of the hill reveals the large temple, nearby tea shops, and a few boys playing cricket with a bunch cut coconut tree branches.  At the top, you get fooled that the entire place is just about the single Temple which forms the central pivot of the place, though it is true, there is also an entire village that came after a ride down the road a further 1 Km. However we rather parked our bike at the temple and walked about on our foot to discover more. 

Farmyards along the way

Road near kovanur

Farther from Kovanur

Snapped En-route

Empty road stretch

Hair pin bend no 1

Viewpoint along the way

Cricket alongside temple

Bike parking area..!

Path to Theppakkulam..

The Theppakkulam

Near the theppakkulam

House along side the village

Lake near the village

MGR's midday meal hut

Whers my Midday meal...!

village backyard

yet another viewpoint

We enquired a few villagers around. We heard that there is a Temple pond / ‘Theppakkulam’ once you go down a small path behind the temple. A walk down this path for about a Km took us to this rather deserted and beautiful theppakkulam amidst thick cover of trees. We further ventured ahead towards the villages and small settlements and were surprised to find a beautiful lake alongside as well. The settlements were completely serene with hardly any one around to be seen. There was even a small elementary school with barely 10 students, we saw more of them infact queuing up for the free midday food than any class at all. A complete roundabout walk around the village lead us back to the main temple. A brief visit inside the temple gave a glimpse about the its history, where all we could find was that the temple was quite old and full of stories, hinting that it would be a must visit place for any ardent temple visitor. Further walk lead us to few more view points for our cameras. The local tea shop nearby served hot and spicy ‘black ginger tea’ (sukku kaapi !) which went just right with the Ragi thattu vada. This was the only place I have seen Ragi vada which tasted very good indeed.

After spending about 2.5 hours exploring the place we started back having spent one of our most satisfied and peaceful time of our lives.